Words: Josh Westerling // @joshwesterling.baky.social
Loss inevitably changes you, both in terms of how you feel and how you view the world. It may colour or build on your disposition, alter or harden your preconceptions. Whichever applies, the truth remains that loss – a change outside of your self – triggers some fundamental shift inside too. For me, that is all tied up with West Ham, Upton Park, and my Dad.
I have been going to West Ham regularly for about fifteen years, twelve of which I have had a season ticket. I’m not cockney (the closest connection I have is my Grandma being from Bethnal Green) but I inherited this ardour of love and loyalty from my Dad. The family lore has it that my Grandad, who moved over from India in the 50s, took my Dad to various clubs around London and West Ham was the best of the bunch.
This story makes sense to me. There was always something different about going to a West Ham game. A kind of electricity would reverberate from Plaistow, down Green Street, out of the pubs and onto the terraces. Upton Park could be an intimidating place for an away fan, in the same way it could be the best place for a party. I loved everything about it. The smell of fried onions drifting from burger vans, the songs (rude, funny, and clever in equal measure), the swearing, the tension on derby days, the joviality of the last home game of the season when a conga would run along the bottom of the East Stand, even if we had already been relegated.
It also felt like a window into the East London that doesn’t exist anymore. West Ham was the connection back to the area which many had left to move to Essex, and it sustained many of the institutions and traditions people associate with East End culture: pie and mash shops, working men’s clubs, and pubs. A kind of weekly pilgrimage I was privileged to witness.
West Ham, and Upton Park itself, also helped sustain mine and my Dad’s relationship. After my parents split up, regular trips to the football were where my Dad and I spent a lot of our time together. When we disagreed about politics – which was quite often, especially during my years of rebellious teenage radicalism – our shared love of West Ham made it easier to put aside these differences, and there was always football to talk about.
Many of my fondest memories with my Dad are attached to West Ham and to Upton Park. Watching us smash Man Utd 4 nil on a snowy night in the league cup, beating Millwall 2-1 with only ten men, the final game at Upton Park – also against United – where we won the game in the last minute. My Dad and I wrapped our arms around each other as we sang I’m Forever Blowing Bubbles in that place for the final time.
I knew something would change at West Ham after we left Upton Park, but I didn’t appreciate it would change quite so profoundly. How every season feels like a fight to maintain what is special about West Ham and that with each passing year it becomes harder to do so. More and more tourists, fewer and fewer old timers, the same soulless bowl that needs a special spark to light the spirit of the old West Ham.
The loss of Upton Park made clear to me that place is important. That history, character, love and pride cannot easily be transported 3 miles up the road. More fundamentally, it was the clearest example to me that ‘progress’ is not always a good thing. Yes the railway links might be better at the new ground and I’m sure someone can make a cogent business case for it, but it will never trump what was lost. I reject the premise of the question of whether I’d prefer the European cup or an alternate history where we remained at Upton Park, but if forced to answer it I choose the latter. The enduring joy of returning to the home of your own memories and those of thousands of others, including those that have passed, trumps the elation of one night.
The scepticism of change that moving from Upton Park triggered in me was only hardened by events that followed 2016. In the summer of 2020, during that reprieve from stringent lockdown measures, my Dad suddenly died from a heart attack that none of us were expecting. The emotional shock of that made me outright averse to change for a period, where my grief yearned for order and stability.
Now West Ham acts as a kind of constant in my life though it is divorced from a place and a person I love by the tyranny of unwanted change. Even as I wonder at points whether I enjoy it as much as I used to, I cannot bring myself to sever that connection, at least not yet. If those unwanted changes introduced in me a more conservative scepticism towards change than many of my fellow left-wingers hold, it also spurred a conservative impulse to value and honour the past.
Going to West Ham feels like that. As I drink in pubs that would otherwise be forgotten about, feel a connection to my Dad, and remember Upton Park with fellow Hammers, the past cannot be forgotten. Nor can any amount of change ever erase the memory of my Dad and I stood in the East Stand, one arm around the other, singing…
I'm forever blowing bubbles,
Pretty bubbles in the air,
They fly so high, nearly reach the sky,
Then like my dreams they fade and die.
Fortune's always hiding,
I've looked everywhere,
I'm forever blowing bubbles,
Pretty bubbles in the air.
At Upton Park, for the last time.
All photos by Josh Westerling.